In a world teaming with diversity, countries large and small, boast of distinctive traits which make them unique, in ways that tweak the interest and curiosity of people at large. While some nations are picturesque and truly inordinate, Malta is entirely improbable. The small island has no natural resources of note, no towering mountain peaks, no gushing rivers or extremes of topography, yet from its relative isolation sitting astride a large body of water, emerges a cosmos of bustle, heft and scenic beauty. In addition to its natural charm, Malta has a peculiar and individual character, which reflects the island's very improbabilities.
The contrast between old and new is seen everywhere in amusing and often contradictory overtones. In villages, donkeys and mules vie with motorized equipment for their fair share of labor in farming small rock-bound fields. Within the shadows of magnificent edifices, constructed during the Renaissance in Malta's capital city of Valletta, tiny retail stores and outdoor markets line narrow ancient roadways, hawking the latest in electronic wares. A short distance down steep stairstep streets leading to the magnificent Grand harbor, quaint Maltese fishing boats called "Dghajsas or Luzzus" ply the placid waters aside the world's largest cruise ships lying at anchor. Painted in gaudy colors, with eyes drawn across bows to ward of evil -- a custom retained from 1,400 B.C. when the Phoenicians made the island a regular trade route stopover -- superstition runs equally high with fishermen , villagers, and city people of professional caliber. To a casual observer with keen eyes and a sharp sense of humor the dissimilarities never end.
Malta's population is another paradox. It is of Phoenician stock, greatly infused with migration from Southern Europe. The Maltese have the medium height, regular features, black hair and dark eyes of most Mediterranean peoples. They speak Maltese, an Arabic dialect somewhat diluted in recent years with Italian and English vernacular. While the guttural Maltese language, with its multiple X's, Q's and consonants remains kindred to North African and Middle-Eastern Arabic, its words are written in Latin script. No other Arabic tongue can boast of having the same degree of accommodation between East and West. One interesting inconsistency follows another. Maltese villages have a distinct Arabic appearance, as do finer city homes with stone arches used for structural support of external apertures such as doors and windows, commonly observed in ancient and contemporary Muslim architecture. For all things Arabic, Malta's Latin culture is steeped in Western European tradition and Christianity. In all of Europe only Malta calls God by his Arabic name "Allah".
Roman Catholicism is the state religion of Malta, yet the power of the Church is in gradual decline, making way for secular assertions on modern morality and legal issues. Divorce and abortion are as divisive in Malta as else place, no matter that both are legally and spiritually banned. Devoutly Catholic, the Maltese are not above using profanity in an odd mixture of singular devotion and misguided familiarity towards the mother church. A strong bond for religious institutions tempered with ecclesiastical irreverence are hall marks of Maltese life.
Malta's long history is checkered with contradictions. The cherished Knights of Malta, whose religious vows called for obedience, chastity and poverty as prerequisites for joining the Order were masters of conspiracy. The venerable knights were neither pure of heart nor in need of welfare. They were in truth the younger sons of European nobility from backgrounds of wealth and pride, whose military ranks did not include a single Maltese, except for a very few who served in the ancillary capacity of spiritual advisors or chaplains. The Order began as a brotherhood for protecting the poor and sick pilgrims as they traversed from Europe to Jerusalem. In time the Knights degenerated in maritime slave trading, under military protection from their avowed Turkish enemies. Much is written about the fighting courage and determination of the knights, facing and defeating superior Turkish hordes under Suleiman, during the great siege of 1565. Less is known that the pivotal mass assault on Fort St. Elmo was started and led by Janissaries, a unit of crack Muslim troops manned by ex-Christian slaves enlisted in the service of the Ottoman empire. Strange that Christian should fight Christian in a struggle for ultimate survival.
A boisterous, happy go lucky people of Latin temperament and charm, the Maltese chose to pattern their judicial and legislative branches of government, not as one might expect tailored after Italy's institutions , a country with whom they share cultural, religious and geographical proximity, but one based instead on English laws, a dubious legacy of 163 years under British colonial rule. Small wonder that both Maltese and English are official languages. Unusual accommodation perhaps, but not so difficult to accept for a populace who is multi-lingual.
Predicated to certain financial ruin following the departure of the British garrison in 1964 and left to its own destiny, Malta emerged as a strong and prosperous center of commerce, trade and industry, with tourism taking the lead as a source of renewable income. Malta the strategic gateway to Britain's now defunct far flung empire, its last major naval harbor en-route to lands situated East Of Eden, defied all pessimistic odds and expectations from doomsday soothsayers. Unshackled and unburdened by foreign occupation, it thrived as never before to emerge as a prosperous and free liberal parliamentary Republic , committed to the social and economic values of the Western democracies. Unencumbered, Maltese ingenuity and drive turned rags into riches, in ways other emergent nations might do well to emulate.
Malta is truly a remarkable island of sharp contrasts. The ancient and new meld and conflict at the same time, ebbing and flowing like tide water. In truth Malta's rich past and promising future are a continuum, complimentary pathways, through which this small but sturdy nation must safely navigate. Along its sometimes turbulent journey Malta will shed many ambiguities concerning its real identity, to emerge as a member in good standing within a larger community of European nations. Malta will have reached home.
E-mail to Joseph Vella: vellajoseph@msn.net
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